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Local Guide Jay Swanson Shares The Ultimate Day In Paris Off The Beaten Track

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Long-time resident, author, and content creator Jay Swanson has mapped out a summer itinerary through the quiet, leafy northeastern districts of Paris for travellers looking to experience the French capital like a local.

Morning: Green Spaces and Canal-Side Strolls

Local Guide Jay Swanson Shares The Ultimate Day In Paris Off The Beaten Track

The journey begins in the 19th arrondissement. Visitors can grab a coffee from Mardi near Jourdain Métro station alongside a pain au chocolat from Milligramme bakery, before heading into Parc des Buttes-Chaumont to enjoy rooftop views, waterfalls, suspension bridges, and hidden Space Invader street art mosaics.

From the park, walk downhill along Avenue de Laumière to Canal de l'Ourcq and see the Rue de Crimée lift bridge, the city's last working bridge of its kind. Stop for a drink at Le Pavillon des Canaux, an eccentric café in a former lock keeper's house, or visit Paname Brewing Company for its canal-facing floating terrace.

Midday: Paris Plages and Waterside Dining

Local Guide Jay Swanson Shares The Ultimate Day In Paris Off The Beaten Track

During summer, the Bassin de la Villette transforms for Paris Plages, offering open-air swimming areas, pétanque courts, watersports, pop-up cafés, and concerts. Families can continue further northeast into Parc de la Villette, or escape the sun inside the twin MK2 cinemas situated on opposite sides of the basin, connected by a free passenger ferry.

For lunch, Le Bastringue serves traditional bistro classics like steak frites on its sunny terrace. Alternatively, visitors can rent self-drive electric boats from AKWA to cruise down Canal de l'Ourcq.

Afternoon Shopping and Independent Cafés

Stroll toward Canal Saint-Martin to browse independent shops, including art bookshop Artazart, gift store Petit Souk, and general store Landline. Coffee stops along the route include Café Margo and specialty coffee and bakery shop Perlant, while JJ Hings offers inventive ice creams, ice cream sandwiches, and floats with unique flavours like Sweet Corn and Cornbread.

Evening Dining in the 11th Arrondissement

As evening falls in the 11th arrondissement, start with an apéritif at Le Cornichon near Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud. Dinner options include sourdough pizzas and pizookie desserts at Oobatz, or seasonal French dishes at Pano Pano. Finish the night with natural wines at L'Orillon or a drink at Liquiderie Bar.

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