Conclusion: pick Trastevere for bohemian romance and lively evenings; pick Monti for style, calm and easy access to the sights.
- Trastevere: on the Tiber's west bank, a maze of cobbled lanes and ivy-covered facades. Quiet by day, it fills at night around Piazza Santa Maria with trattorias and street performers. Known for classic Roman cooking (carbonara) and family-run B&Bs in medieval buildings. Downsides: limited public transport, uneven streets and dimmer lighting at night.
- Monti: east of the Roman Forum and close to Termini station, a few minutes' walk from the Colosseum. Full of vintage shops, indie boutiques and local restaurants; quieter at night with the best transport links.
Both are great bases — get lost in the alleys or stay central and calm, the choice is yours.
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